Friday, October 15, 2010

Tonga and a bit of Fiji Sept 12 - Oct 15

Again I'm driving the dinghy drunk. Where is the dinghy police? What if I hit a turtle? Uff ya! This sailing life will be the end of me. Fiji is beautiful. But let us take a step back in time; back to the Kingdom of Tonga. Back to bad but beautiful anchorages and party upon party. We arrive in a fresh breeze. We hide behind the main island under a huge wall of green, about 100m tall. Next day check in and party followed by another party followed by Henrik getting assaulted by a Fakalady.

We're drinking at Tonga Bob's. There is a Fakalady show. What is a Fakalady? I have no idea; we have no idea. The place is packed, screaming and cheering, the empty stage…we wait. Music fills the room. Something really slick and sleazy. And then the performer comes out. Cowboy hat, tank top, high heels, lipstick, aviators. And of course a 5 o'clock shadow…the hips are kinda manly too. Hmm, this is a man, I believe. They do a little tease show, thrusting their hips hear and there. Teasing the crowd, and of course Henrik…he gets a kiss and she does this little act as though she's giving him a blowjob. The crowd goes bananas, absolute coconuts. It goes on for a while and we drink. Then we drink some more. We interact with the German dental students. For a country where it is illegal to walk in public without a shirt and you get fined if you get caught, the show was a big whoa!

The next day we go hitchhiking around the island. Dirt in my lungs, I guess I'm suppose to feel like a true vagabond, real special and all, riding in the back of this dilapidated pick-up hungover and sore. There's another party tonight and we're there. The Dancing Rooster is right under the Giggling Whale and Thirsty Turtle. Dancing Rooster has a Karaoke night. GW and TT is a bar/restaurant. I won't write about doing 'My Heart Will Go Off' with Karol, and the place going silent, that's typical. We take off around 3 after the rooster died and head for the dinghy. But Henrik is a trooper and decides to stick around as there's another party just around the corner, a local one. No amount of persuasion can convince us to go with him or him with us. We head our separate ways. In the morning I hear him coming back barefooted across the deck. In the morning after coffee and some giggles, during that silence that we all know so well after a wasted night of drinking and talking up women, Henrik begins his story. He's very good, oh yes.

The dance floor was full and dark and after the initial grinding introduction this girl gives him a peck on the lips, smiles with her eyes and administers two slaps, forehand and perfect backhand. If it were me, the firm grip on the forearm as she yanks one off the dance floor would have given it away. But Henrik didn't get it and he found himself behind a coconut palm, illuminated by a weak street lamp. And then he saw that she was a he. She grabs his pants and yanks, he yanks the other way but he can't wriggle away. They do this silly dance for a while but he persists and in the end gets away. Points firmly with his finger, assertively says 'No' and is off into the darkness. He gets to the dock and sits under the stars dimming into the distance before the rising sun. He doesn't think of what happened too much because it's not the first time and he makes no big deal of it. A guy walks up to him. Says hello and jumps in the water. Swims to his boat, but then returns. Walks up to Henrik and asks if it was him that was calling him over. Henrik says No, then the guy jumps back in the water and swims off to his boat. In the end Henrik gets a ride with some fisherman. I had no real adventures on Tonga, neither did Karol. The last night we spent by Tana island where there was a moon party. I stayed with the boat on the dodgy anchorage, but Karol and Henrik went. UV illuminated dancing skeletons to electronica and drum and bass...they return and in the morning we're off.

Four days later we're in Fijian waters. It's nice, all the currents and inaccurate maps, strong winds and uncharted reefs...yes, we've been having a blast here. In Savu Savu we join the paddling club. We paddle and drink Kava, more drinking than paddling, of course. Kava is a traditional drink, drunk in social circles. We've heard that it upsets the intestinal system and tastes like mud mixed with saw dust and dissolved in dirty drain water. It makes your lips tingle and tongue numb. It's like smoking a really weak joint. Our experiences with it are very fine. It tastes different, but it's definitely not revolting. The socializing is nice and the effects are gentle. We've had no negative side effects, except for grogginess. In the morning, even after sleeping for 8 hours, you feel tired and slow. The cure the locals say, is washdown: having a drink before going to sleep. One day we go for a picnic on the local island with some of the paddlers. All we bring is a tin of fish and some salt. In about 3 hours we have a beautiful meal in a coconut bowl, wrapped in four different leaves, with coconut cream and local vegetables found in the forest. All baked in the fire in an 'oven' made out of banana leaves and covered with sand. A few days later the guests arrive and I'm cruising around the islands with them and Tobias, Henrik and Karol are discovering the interior of the island.

Ciao,
Lucius

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Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Tonga Ponga

Jest 4 nad ranem 1 pazdziernika, w Polsce studenci wlasnie smigaja na studia, a my stoimy w dryfie 10 mil od Savusavu na Fiji. Heh stanie w dryfie to prawie tak jak jazda z autopilotem;p Tylko robimy 1 wezel, zamiast jakichs 5, nno ale cos za cos. I znalazl sie w koncu czas na napisanie trzech slow o ostatnich dwoch tygodniach - w krolestwie Tonga.

Hm, Vava'u group na Tonga, idealne miejsce do zeglowania, setki wysp, zatok i kotwicowisk idealnie oslonietych od oceanicznej fali. Kupa czesto odwiedzanych miejsc, gdzie zawsze sie spotka jakichs znajomych. Kupa mniej popularnych, gdzie lezac na malutkiej plazy, ogrodzonej po obu stronach klifami, dziecinnie latwo ulec mozna wrazeniu, ze jest sie jedyna zywa istota na wyspie gdzies na srodku oceanu. Nno, moze nie liczac paru dzikich koz.
W lesie rosna dzikie drzewa pomaranczy i mandarynek.
Tonga jest jedynym miejscem na Pacyfiku, ktore nigdy nie bylo niczyja kolonia. W stolicy, Neiafu, wyraznie widac jakis taki swoj wlasny, indywidualny, tonganski klimat; nie czuc tej zachodniej atmosfery, ktora byla obecna np. na Polinezji Francuskiej. A no i pierwszy raz od pol roku, jestesmy w miejscu, gdzie jest taniej niz w Polsce.

Co roku sa organizowane tutaj spore regaty, a w miedzy czasie, na jednej z malych wysepek, najwieksza bibka na Tonga. Jako, ze my nie bralismy udzialu w regatach, nie bylismy teoretycznie zaproszeni. Wszystkie jachty stanely na kotwicowisku na N wyspy. No to co, my ciach na to idealnie osloniete, wygodne kotwicowisko na S. Chcielismy sobie elegancko przejsc na druga strone wyspy. Wyszlo w koncu tak, ze przez prawie godzine przedzieralismy sie juz w nocy, przez geste krzaczory (nie bylo zadnych sciezek), sugerujac sie tylko kierunkiem skad dochodzila muzyka. Na miejscu, popijajac rum, obczajamy dobre patenty. Ogolnie impreza w stylu pirackim. Jakies mroczne wizualizacje wyswietlane na powieszonych na drzewach zaglach. W rogu, na gorce wybudowana polowa zaglowca, na ktorym tanczyly swiecace sie w uv kobiety piraci. Gdzies dalej walczace na miecze swietlne szkielety. Fire show. Jak zwykle super miedzynarodowe towarzystwo. Darmowe drinki.

Hm, ciekawe, ludzie na Pacyfiku w wiekszej wiekszosci wygladaja na duzo mlodszych niz sa w rzeczywistosci. I to tak konkretnie, np. wygladajaca na 20 lat kobieta na targu w Neiafu, okazuje sie matka czworki dzieci, z czego najstarsze ma 17 lat. Widac, jaki bezstresowy styl zycia i dobra dieta maja wplyw na organizm.

Ogolnie to na tym naszym Pacyfiku jest bardzo niebezpiecznie.
-Ktoregos razu wybralismy sie z Henrikiem do jaskini, takiej tu duzej jaskini, co to do niej mozna tylko od wody wplynac. Wzielismy wiec dinghy i poplynelismy. Wielka jaskinia, nietoperze i inne taie atrakcje. I juz jak wracalismy, tuz przy Nektonie, patrze, a tu sie cos wije w baczku, mowie 'ty Henrik, mamy weza w dinghy', a on 'no co ty'. Nie wiedzielismy co to jest, podplynelismy do Nektona, jakims patykiem wyrzucilismy tego weza do wody. Potem sie okazalo, ze to waz morski, najbardziej jadowity wez na swiecie. Musial siedziec w baczku jakies dobre 10 minut.
-Innego razu, na dyskotece, pewien czlonek zalogi, ktory prosil, zeby nie ujawniac jego imienia (powiem tylko ze zaczyna sie na litere H) zostal zaatakowany przez lokalnego fakalady (facet brodziasty, w ubraniu i makijazu kobiecym). Na wstepie, poszkodowany zostal brutalnie pocalowany, nastepnie podwojnie spoliczkowany. Po czym agresor sila wyciagnal ofiare z dyskoteki i zaciagnal do rosnacego nieopodal drzewa, gdzie nastapila proba gwaltu oraz gdzie w koncu pokrzywdzonemu udalo sie wyswobodzic z rak oprawcy.
-Kolejnym zagrozeniem, czychajacym na nasze zdrowie jest grozna, tropikalna choroba, atakujaca uklad pokarmowy, w regularnych odstepach czasu, jednakze objawy najbardziej odczuwalne sa w nocy. Jest to packmanus pacyfikus pospolitus lub jego grozniejsza odmiana packmanus melanezjus ludojadus.

Karol

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